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Home Automation Tips and Tricks Archive
April 2000 - Page 2

Entry 10 - Alarm System Status

Mike Ponic vette@MNSi.Net  Lasalle, Ontario, Canada

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Problem: I have a DSC Power832 Alarm system with a PSC05 Powerline Interface Module and a Wireless Key Fob for the Alarm. The alarm default when activating/deactivating the alarm system via the key fob is to chirp the siren one/two times respectively. My neighbors did not really appreciate this being that I leave for work at 6:00am and I am out quite late some nights.

Solution: Use one of the two "real world" outputs (set to alarm "armed") of the Power832 to trigger a SPDT relay. Trigger an on- timer relay from both the normally open and the normally closed contacts of the SPDT relay. Set the timer from the normally open contact to approx. 2 seconds and the timer from the normally closed contact to approx. 4 seconds. Parallel the outputs of each timer relay to an X-10 Powerflash module. Set the code of the Powerflash module to that of the lights on the front of the home/garage. When the alarm is armed, the lights on the front of the house/garage will flash once and when the alarm is disarmed, the lights on the front of the house/garage will flash twice. The flashing lights will be visible both day and night, will indicate the alarm status and most importantly will not disturb the neighbors.

Powerflash Module PF284 - $30 
SPDT Relay - $8 
(2) Timer Relays - $40

Total Cost - $78

Entry 11 - Turn an old Mac into a dedicated Home Automation controller & defeat the memory limits of Activehome.

Peter Leonard pleonard@emsb.qc.ca  St. Bruno, Quebec, CANADA

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I had an old Macintosh (Classic II with 4 MB of RAM and an 80MB HD) sitting in the garage collecting dust. When I became interested in Home Automation this past Christmas, I purchased an IBM Home Director started kit with the Activehome Interface. Soon afterwards I had problems downloading and storing events from the computer software (MouseHouse) to the Activehome interface. I dusted off the old Classic and put it to work. I wrote a series of AppleScript applications for each module (ie "A1 ON" or "A1 dim 50%") which send X-10 commands to the ActiveHome Communications module of the Mousehouse Software, which in turn relays the command to the ActiveHome interface. I installed CronoTask (a Macintosh CRON application which launches applications at pre-specified dates and times). 

I then put the computer up on a shelf and forgot about it. It handles all the daily events for me and you are no longer limited by the free memory available in the Activehome interface. You can set up limitless events.

Component List: 
Old Mac ($0.00) 
Home Director Started Kit ($39.00) 
MouseHouse ($69.00) 
Cronotask (Shareware $29.00 )

Approximate Total Cost of Components: $140.00

Entry 12 - How to end sleepless nights when you have a new baby

Simon Mason simon@themasons.net Chatham, NJ USA

Oh, the life of a new parent! After spending almost seven years in matrimonial bliss my wife and I decided to add a little bundle of joy to our uncomplicated lives. We read all the books and watched all the videos, and many of the mentioned the word colic, but it didn't seem that bad in their description. No where did it say I would be walking around the house at 3 in the morning with the little one sleeping peacefully on my shoulder only to have her start wailing when I put her in the crib. 

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Then we found out about the crib vibrator. This unit is manufactured by a company in Ohio and is industrial strength. You mount it to the underneath of the crib with the hardware provided and voila. It is powerful, yet gentle. The vibration is pleasant enough that I almost fell asleep listening to it. The only problem is that it came with a short cord with a switch in the middle of the cord. This meant that you had to crawl under the crib to turn it on and off. This is where the home automation came in. I plugged the vibrator into an X-10 appliance module so that I could control it remotely. I then programmed a number of switches around the house to kick off a macro in my home automation controller (Cyberhouse). 

Activating the switch would start a timer (20 minutes), turn on the vibrator, and then turn it off again when the timer had run down. I also programmed one switch to turn it on permanently on those really bad nights. I keep an 8 button wireless remote next to the bed so I don't have to get out of bed to activate the relief. My daughter just had her first birthday and we still use this on the rare occasions when we need to convince her that she should be sleeping. Other parents that had kids with colic turn green with envy when they find out about our setup.

Parts:

X-10 Appliance Module - $15 
Smart Controller (I use Savoy Cyberhouse) - varies 
X-10 remotes (wireless 8 button, Leviton wall mounted 4 switches, etc.) - varies 
Crib vibrator - $75 (comes with tape of car noise as an added bonus) - No web site but I have the 800 number if any other desperate parents need it!

Entry 13 - You Got Mail!

Tim Shephard  tim.shephard@bigfoot.com Suisun, CA, USA

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This tip will let you know when your mail arrives in your mailbox. Especially helpful when its raining and your mailbox is out by the sidewalk. Ready made wireless solutions require batteries and can suffer from missed signals due to RF problems.

This idea is simple. Pick up some direct burial telephone cable from your local home improvement store. Bury the cable in a small trench out to your mailbox location. This cable is specially made to resist water, dirt, oil, and sunlight damage. In your mailbox wire a magnetic switch to the door and then to the cable.

On the other end, perhaps in your garage, wire the opposite end to a powerflash module set to code A-1. In the house place one or more chime modules throughout the house set to A-1.

Next time the mail is delivered, the magnetic switch, triggers the powerflash which sends the X10 code to ring the chime module. You may not hear 'You Got Mail', but you will know when it arrives!

Magnetic switch $3 
Powerflash $15 
Chime Module $20 
Total: $38

Entry 14 - Automate your sprinklers

Dave Bartlett dbvideo@usa.net  Rochester, NY, USA

You don't need an expensive in-ground sprinkler system to have automated lawn watering. You can simply use an x-10 appliance module, a 12 volt water valve, and a 12 volt dc power supply to turn on your sprinklers outside.

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You can go to your local Home Depot, Lowes, Builders Square, etc and buy a RainBird soleniod water valve in the garden or sprinkler parts area. (about 18 bucks) This valve opens when 12 volts DC is applied to the leads. Be sure to buy a valve with the same thread measurements as your homes outside spigot. One side of the valve threads onto the spigot, and the garden hose with your sprinkler goes on the other side of the valve. Now, run a 14 gauge cable from the valves two leads to a 12 volt DC power supply inside the house. You can buy one for about 12 bucks at radio shack, but will need to make your own AC plug for it. Once you make the AC plug (wall plug blanks available at radio shack or the hardware store) plug the power supply into a X-10 appliance module. When you turn the module on, it applies power to the power supply, which then applies 12 volts to the valve outside, which opens the flow of water to your sprinkler! Now, you can use x-10 to schedule early morning waterings, or even scare off trespassers (animals or humans).

COMPONENTS:

Rain Bird or other brand 12 volt soleniod water valve about $18.00 
12 volt DC power supply $12.00 
14 gauge cable of desired length $5.00-10.00 
X-10 appliance module $10.00 
AC plug $2.00

Total (not including your own hose and sprinker) approx. $47.00

Entry 15 - Automate your computers MP3 playback, or any other function, without RS-232, from your intelligent controller

Dave Bartlett dbvideo@usa.net  Rochester, NY, USA

If you are like many music lovers, you are listening to a lot (or all) of your music on your computer via mp3 files. One frustrating thing about this is that it's hard to integrate control of your playlists into a Home automation system. Of course, if you have a HomeVision or other intelligent controller with RS-232 you can send serial commands to the computer to play your music playlists. But if you don't have this luxury, or you are like me, and use that serial connection for another dedicated computer to play it's own sound files for home announcements, there is another way to control your computer (or 2nd computer in my case) via IR just like controlling your CD player. You will need a device that can learn and emit IR signals, such as an intelligent controller.

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The key is to buy one of those wireless keyboards that use IR to transmit keystroke commands back to the computer. I picked one up at BJs wholesale club for $20, but the average retail is about $50.

Now, figure out which series of keyboard strokes will always start your playlist. The key to this is to make a shortcut to your particular list and include it in the programs list under the start menu. Write down the exact keystrokes that will launch that playlist (the player does not need to be launched first, it will launch automatically when you launch a related file). The first keystroke is the Start Menu key on windows 95 keyboards (the one with the windows symbol). The next keystroke is "P" for programs, the next keystroke is the first letter of the name of your list file, say "m" for music. If you have only one item in the programs menu that starts with that letter, it will start automatically. If you have more than one item that starts with that letter, you just type the letter as many times as needed to highlight your file, then type return. The list will start playing. (I use Winamp, other programs may require another keystroke to start playback.)

Now, learn those keystrokes from the IR keyboard to your IR controller, and create a macro that will transmit that sequence of IR commands. You can use a X-10 Powermid to relay the IR from your controller to the computer, where the keyboards IR receiver is. Finally, if you don't want to use the Wireless keyboard as your main keyboard, you can buy a keyboard "Y" adapter that will allow operation of 2 simultaneous keyboards. Now you can still use your computer normally with it's own keyboard, but the computer will also respond to the wireless IR keyboard, or any other IR device sending commands that correlate to keyboard strokes.

You can enter your "keystroke macro" into scenes, or just remotely fire up the music from a touchpad. In fact, you can do just about anything on your computer with this method.

COMPONENTS

IR learning and transmitting device (intelligent controller, etc) that you already own plus...

Wireless IR Keyboard $50 
Dual Keyboard adapter (if desired) $50 (Tiger Direct, P55-1004) 
X-10 Powermid combo (if needed) $40

TOTAL $50 - $140

Entry 16 - Adding NIC Cables in finished house

Patrick McGrath panamapat@att.net Highlands Ranch, CO,

The key to getting around to each room of the house is getting the cables in an accessible area. I've found that routing all the cables through the return air duct of the furnace works wonderfully for getting from the basement to the attic. Once in the attic, then I can drop the cable down through a freshly drilled hole in on of the bedroom closets. Once in the closet, then I snake the cables down along the carpet edge and tuck the cables in between the molding and the carpet. Works like a champ.

List of Components: 
NIC cables, drill, air filter mask

Approximate Total Cost of Components: 
For 5 rooms, around $100

Editors Note: Running wire in HVAC ducts goes against the building code in many areas and is not recommended.

Entry 17 - RF to IR to X10 control

Bill Kearney wkearney@gilman.edu  Baltimore, MD

1 RF remote from Radio Shack (remote and RF to IR base station) 
1 IRMan infrared to RS232 receiver 
1 Windows98 PC 
1 PC remote software 
1 RedRat2 RS232 to infrared emitter 
1 X10 CM11a RS232 to power line controller 
1 bit of my own code

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I have my RF remote sending signals to the base station. The base station is pointed at the IRMan. The IRMan is connected to the PC. The PC is running PC Remote software. I have a module of my own creation speaking to the remote. This software then converts the incoming RF signals in to the desired outbound IR signals.

So I can hit the "TV Power" button on my remote and have it automagically:

I also have the AUX Power button configured to give me just the TV using it's own speakers. Ditto on all this using the OFF commands. I also have the PC running timed jobs that periodically turn OFF the stuff if nothing's happening. As in, if I leave the house and the Amp is still on, the PC notices no commands have come in over RF remote and turns off the stuff it knows to have been left on.

There are several other macro structures I'm working on at the present.

Sure, you *could* do this with a fancy Philips, MS or Sony remote. But you'd have to pay big bucks and be limited by what the remotes can hold in memory.

How's that for fancy Home Automation tricks?

Entry 18 - Smart Electric Strike Timer

Frank Rico rico@yorklock.com  Miami, FL

I have an electric strike on my front door. My problem was that the RF remote I use to unlock it only energizes the strike as long as I hold the button. I wanted to put a timer on it to extend the amount of time the strike is energized, but I am often carrying packages and I wanted to have enough time to put the remote in my pocket and then pick up the packages. However, on the occasions that I don't have any packages, I didn't want the strike to remain energized for an excessive period of time.

The solution I came up with was a smart timer. I modified an ELK-960 timer with a terminate time input. I wired this input to a normally open magnetic contact I installed on the door. Now, when I push the remote transmitter, or when the strike is energized from any other device in my house, the timer energizes the strike for 2 minutes. However, if the door is opened before the 2 minutes expire, the timer is immediately terminated and the strike de-energizes. This now allows me to push the transmitter button while I am still in the car and gives me plenty of time to pick up the packages and then open the door. As a bonus, I switched the strike power supply to DC so it would not buzz, which makes it a lot more pleasant.

I started with an ELK-960 timer ( http://www.smarthome.com/7279.html ) and set the jumpers as follows: JP1 to Min., JP2 to 1-shot, JP3 to begin, JP4 to B, JP5 to +. I then soldered a wire to the solder pad corresponding to pin 14 on the only IC chip on the board. This wire will be the terminate timer input. I connected this wire to one side of the normally open magnetic contact I installed on the door and power supply negative to the other. I then connected the trigger, strike and power supply to the board as indicated on the diagram. I installed the timer board in single gang box near the door to make wiring easy. The set the time adjustment dial to +/- 2 minutes. That was it.

This project can also be triggered by the garage door opener to provide entry to the house without any extra transmitters.

Parts List 
ELK-960 timer (smarthome #7279) $25.00 
NO Magnetic Contact $5.00 or from the spare parts box 
12VDC 500mA transformer $25.00 or from the spare parts box 
Electric Strike $35.00 - $125.00 
Remote transmitter & receiver (smarthome #7436S or similar) $70.00

 ---Total---$160.00 or less

Entry 19 - X-10 troubleshooting tip

Bruce Wolfe - Berwyn, MD USA

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I've found that a cheap, (but loud) plug-in radio and a long extension cord are a useful way to find signal sopping power supplies and surge suppressors that may be causing poor signal levels in your house. With the increasing use of "switched" power supplies and surge protectors it's possible to buy a new gadget that zaps your X-10 setup.

Plug the radio into a module you are having a problem with and turn it up. Plug an extension cord into the outlet where the controller (CM11A, TM751, maxi-controller) normally is plugged in and then route the extension cable and a maxi-controller so that you can stand at the main electrical breaker panel and send and on-off command and switch breakers off one by one until you can hear the radio turn on and off. This really limits the amount of devices you have to unplug to find the signal suckers. If you have a signal meter you can use this technique to see the effect in terms of voltage loss of removing legs of the household electrical circuits standing right at the panel.

List of Components:
Cheap AC powered radio (Radio Shack 12-726 - $19.95)
100 foot extension cord ($20)

Approximate Total Cost of Components: ($40 but most people have at least one component on hand)

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