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Home Automation Tips and Tricks Archive
September 1999

I recently had a TM751 receiver ( radio shack version is 61-2663) that stopped functioning after an electrical storm. Unit had no response even from the local "on-off" button.. Found ZD6, 18 v zener diode bad. Located just to the right of the pic and labeled on the pc board.

I needed a quick a "dirty" Flashing alarm clock for a friend who is deaf. She is trained or I should say aware of "Light" even when she is sleeping.

I used a Wall module, and simply connected a Clamp-light to it. Between the Lamp and the bulb itself I inserted a "Button Flasher" That I believe is available from Radio Shack for a buck or two. (I have had mine for several years now). This button Flasher was there to do just that... Make the light flash.

Now all it took was to set the "Alarm Time" on the computer control.

To shut off the light all she has to do is reach over and press the "Programmed button" on the Palm Pad, or one of the remotes that are available.

I haven't tried any sort of a "snooze", but I would think that if you used the macros and had the modules linked together you might be able to set off the same module at 10 minute intervals or so.

What did it cost? One lamp module $12.00, button Flasher $2.00 (?) and a clip lamp that I got on Sale for $4.00.

I have noticed that a couple of tips list programming the "X10 MS13A" 'Hawkeye Motion Detector' to work and use only one code as programming the first code at _A_16_ forcing the second code to _A_16_+_1_..... But what happens on my devices is that the 'A1' is now code 'A1' and turns on devices set for the 'A1' of the same house code.

I have been forwarded a number of work arounds and can not take credit for them.. but in short -:

(1) Cover with tape or a brush on paint the (WMW) light sensor.

(2) Cut the light sensor from the board all together.

In my old apartment, my bedroom had only one outlet that was in a suitable spot for use with my computer; use of any other outlet would require running a power cable across or through a doorway. Unfortunately, the building designer decided that should be the outlet controlled by the light switch (oddly, there was an unswitched outlet about 4' from the switch, which is where I plugged in the light).

To remedy this situation, I took one of the wall-mount switches, cut a hole in the back (since the four corner screws seem adequate to hold the thing together), and velcroed it on top of the original light switch, which I let remain in the "on" position. Not only did this eliminate the hazard of people (including me!) turning off my computer by mistake, but it also let me place the light for the room in its most effective location.