Home Automation Tips & Tricks Contest Archive
June 1999

Entry No. 1 - Charlie Prokes etacp@bc.sympatico.ca Kelowna, BC, Canada

Home Steam Bath on Remote?!

The Steam Bath unit is 220VAC. It was controlled by timer alone. Usually the time set was too short, or if set longer, it got too unbearably hot; temperature controller was not ideal either. Having the X-10 doing quite a bit around my place already, I have set-up this.

Using 220VAC contactor for main supply would be quite costly, but putting the operating timer circuit on X-10 was fairly simple. The timer circuit runs also on 220VAC but at low current. A UM506 could not be used, it's rated for 24V max. The alternative, which I used, was this:

One wire to the timer was cut (anywhere, before or after timer) and connected to the normally open contacts on the relay. Now, I set timer to 50 +/- minutes, use the key chain remote KC674 (in a small zip-loc bag) to send signal to TM751, which sends signal to AM466 and turns ON the spa (boiler). Furthermore, when I get in and it gets too hot, I use the KC674 to turn boiler OFF, then ON, and so on.

Keeping the timer in the circuit in series with remotely controlled relay gives me security that if for any reason the AM466 is turned ON, when not wanted, the boiler will not start. The set-up could be simplified by replacing : "110VAC/12VAC transformer - rectifier - 12VDC/220VAC (10Amp) relay" with a "110VAC/220VAC" relay if you have one. Now, isn't this is the ultimate in comfort?

List of components and prices in canadian dollars:

PS: using same or slightly modified set-up, possibilities are endless as to what you may control remotely with X-10 controls.

Entry No. 2 - Dave Landfried dlandfried@usa.net Olean, NY

Double Devices on RF Transceiver

Usually, an X10 remote (RF) transceiver can only control 16 devices on one house code. However, with some creative macros, it is possible to control much more than just 16 devices. The same is true for the mini- and maxi- controllers. I am using Active Home to do this. Active Home comes with a PC module, remote module, remote control, and more.

First, I have placed my X10 modules on house code A. These are the outdoor lights, several inside lights, a fan, and a TV. I then created several macros with housecode B using Active Home and downloaded these to the PC module. I then set the transceiver module to receive housecode B and program my remote control to send housecode B. An "On" macro can be different than the "Off" macro for the same housecode and address, for example B1 ON can control different items than B1 OFF. In addition to the transceiver module, I set my mini-controller to housecode B and use the same macros.

The key to this working are the macros stored in the PC module. When the transceiver receives a B1 ON command it sends it out the power line. The PC module actually receives the command and activates the macro, which in turn runs the A code devices. Below is a list of some of my devices and macros.

Devices:

Macros:

As you can see, programming any combination of macro is possible. This has expanded my capability beyond ON and OFF for my transceiver and mini-controller. You are only limited by your imagination.

The cost of this is $49.99 for Active Home and the cost of any other modules and controllers (which I already had).

Entry No. 3 - Dave Landfried dlandfried@usa.net Olean, NY  

Appliance Module to Control Heater

Have you ever sat around at night watching a movie and want to turn the heat up but in order to do so that would mean leaving the room and your movie? How would you like to control your heater with X10 but the modules are just too expensive? I created a controller with spare equipment and a $3.00 relay from Radio Shack and can now control the heat from a remote or a table top controller.

Needed:

I had an old transformer power supply in my odds and ends box that I cut the end off and stripped back the wires. I then soldered these wires to the coil terminals of the relay (you may want to use some vector board or project copper boards from Radio Shack). I then connected the normally open contacts of the relay to my thermostat. Then, I plugged the transformer into the appliance module, set the code to H1, and plugged it into an outlet.

Next, I set up a macro that will turn H1 on for 10 minutes. I also set up an off macro to make sure this can be turned off. Now, whenever we feel a chill, we just run press a button and the heater comes on.

Notes:

  1. I use a programmable thermostat that adjusts automatically. This does not interfere with that. It will work regardless of the setting on the thermostat.
  2. Thermostats work by closing a circuit that operates a relay at the heater. This will close the circuit regardless of the thermostat since it will be in parallel with it.
  3. I initially thought of modifying the appliance module to just close the contacts instead of applying AC. However, I then realized that the appliance module does not meet the requirements for safety (UL) spacing between high voltage and low voltage, even if modified. I personally do not want to create a shock hazard in my house, or burn my house down.

Cost:

Entry No. 4 - Doug Smith

Mowing the Lawn


Mowing the Lawn, by Doug Smith

Sometimes a low tech solution to automation is all that is needed to save a lot of work. Although I'm working on a robotic lawn mower, it will be quite some time before it's perfected. In the mean time, I've managed to cut my mowing time to about half of what it used to be. I'm not sure of the exact cost because most of the parts were scrounged. Even the mower was a $30 garage sale special. In total, I probably have less than $50 in the project.

Before we get started, you must read this warning: What I am describing is how I mow my lawn and not a suggestion of how to mow yours. This could be very dangerous if done poorly. I and Home Toys are not responsible if you injure, mame, kill your pets, family, neighbors, etc. With that out of the way, here's my story for your entertainment.

My lawn is nearly an acre in size. The back yard, which is the largest part of that, is mostly one large rectangle with almost no trees. I discovered that two circles cover the bulk of the back yard. I was able to modify a self propelled mower to cut these circles by winding a tether cable on a spool. At the same time, I use another mower to trim around the edges.
My mower has a 21 inch cutting width and I just happened to have an old wire spool with a circumference of 19 inches. That gives a perfect overlap as the mower makes each pass around the circle.
The spool has a pipe attached to it that fits into another pipe in the ground. The ground pipe is set in place with a small concrete pad. The pad is sunk low enough to be covered with a layer of dirt and grass. Note the notch in the ground pipe. The spool pipe has a bolt attached to it that fits in the notch to keep the whole spool from spinning.
The cable is plastic coated wire that I picked up at the local hardware store. I use one long piece and another shorter extension to make it easy to mow my two different sized circles. The silver parts you see are the cable clamps used to make loops in the end of the cable.
A screw eye and a spring latch clip quickly attaches and releases the cable to the mower. I have attachments on both sides of my mower so I can change the direction of mowing to help keep the grass from getting matted down in one direction.
The self-propelled drive lever is held in place by a metal clip normally used for hanging brooms on a wall. I keep it tied to the mower handle bar so it doesn't get lost or fall off and get mowed.
As you can imagine, safety is a big issue here. I run this in a fenced yard. I first inspect the yard for toys and object that could get hit. No children or pets are allowed in the yard while the mower is running. And most important, I never leave it unattended.

I am also working on a bumper system that will activate the engine kill switch if anything gets in the mower's path. This will have the added benefit of killing the engine when the cable is fully wound on the spool.

That's about it. I put the spool in one end of the lawn, let it run in circles until all of the cable is wound up, then move it to the other end of the lawn. It usually finishes just before I finish the parts outside of the circles.

I've tested some ideas for a system where the spool slides back and forth along a straight cable to mow a big oval instead of two circles. It looked promising but needed improvement. I think I'll put the time and effort into that robotic mower instead.

Entry No. 5 - Patrick M. DuBois patrick_dubois@rhss.bc.ca Vancouver, BC   Canada

Capacitor al forno

I was a bit scared of opening the main breaker panel in my house to install a 0.1 microfarad to bridge the A and B phases. I found it much easier to install it in my stove instead!

I simply unplugged the stove from its 220V outlet, removed the few screws which held the back cover, and then installed the leads of the capacitor across the 220V hot wires coming into the stove (at the end of the power cord). My unit had 2 large connecting posts with screws which made the installation super easy. As the unit is not plugged in the wall outlet during the procedure, it seemed very safe to me. If something goes wrong with the capacitor later on, I think the breaker should protect the system.

Remember you will be working with AC. Everything has to be done according to code. Hire an electrician if you are not qualified. Neither I nor Home Toys or any of their affiliates can be held responsible for any accidents.

List of Components:

Entry No. 6 - Patrick M. DuBois patrick_dubois@rhss.bc.ca Vancouver, BC   Canada

Only one unit code Hawkeye

When using the Hawkeye II motion sensor, 2 unit codes are used for each transmission. The first one for motion, the second one (1 number higher) for the Dawn/Dusk detection. So if the unit is set for motion on A3, the Dawn/Dusk will be sent on A4.

It looks like it is possible to send only one code (and save precious unit codes for other units) if the Dawn/Dusk function is not required, by setting the unit code to 16. As there is no 17, the 16 + 1 should not work. I don't have any equipment to check what really happens, but it seems to be working...

List of Components:

Total Cost of Components: nothing as it is a modification of an already own Hawkeye. :-)

Entry No. 7 - Patrick M. DuBois patrick_dubois@rhss.bc.ca Vancouver, BC   Canada

Cat Patrol

I am not sure if it is really necessary to keep the CM11A interface alive or not. However, just to be safe, I decided to give it some daily activity. I have read the various entries and solutions regarding this problem. Mine has the benefit of being extremely simple to implement and inexpensive! I have several Hawkeyes I received as freebies with my X10 orders and did not really needed all of them! So, I simply placed one in the house, aiming low, and rely on the cat to trigger it during the day when there is nobody home. When the house is occupied, people moving in the house add some more action. This sends a signal to the transceiver (RR501) which then relay it on the AC line, keeping the CM11A busy.

If you don't have an animal in the house, I guess it should be possible to aim the Hawkeye II towards the traffic on the street or something like that...

Installation is super easy: just stick the Hawkeye in place with adhesive Velcro and set the codes. That's it.

Cost: free Hawkeye. Cat: ?

Entry No. 8 - Paul Sabourin MilPaul@aol.com   Milwaukee WI

Motion Detector Timer

The outdoor motion detector is very convenient, except when you are in your driveway cleaning your car or in the yard mowing your lawn only to realize your indoor lights and chimes have been going off for the past 10 minutes! My solution to this is to hook up the motion detector to an appliance module and program a macro on the Active-home on an unused code to turn off the motion detector for a preset amount of time then back on again.

I used to just turn off the power to the detector but usually forgot to turn it back on. This way it will automatically come back on. I have a separate code now (say O for off) and when I hit 1off the motion detector will go off for 1 hour then turn back on. If I am mowing the lawn I will hit 2 off to initiate a macro so it will go off for 2 hours then back on etc.

If you already have the floodlight w/motion detector, the Active-home for your computer and a mini controller all you will need is an appliance module for your detector. Approximately $10 to make sure your motion detector is in use when you need it!

Entry No. 9 - Rich Masson ramasson@mmm.com St. Paul, MN. USA

Dual VCR control

My wife periodically wants to tape a program on both of our VCR's at the same time and she is always calling one of us to start and stop the second VCR (downstairs) at the right time. Or she has to run up and down the stairs (quickly) to do it herself.

Since both of the VCR's are the same brand and use the same remote I set up a PowerMid Remote Receiver atop the VCR upstairs and it's remote sender pointing at the VCR downstairs. That worked fine, but now EVERY time she used the remote upstairs, the VCR downstairs was duplicating it's actions. So I then plugged the downstairs PowerMid sender in to an appliance module so she could turn it on and off when she wants the VCR downstairs to respond.

Next I added a lamp module with a small light plugged in to it upstairs and on the same address as the appliance module so she would have a visual indication upstairs of when the PowerMid sender downstairs was ON. Now she can tape to her hearts content on both VCR's.

List of Components:

Approx. total cost: less than $50 - Powermid $25 (on sale at X-10), Appliance & lamp modules $20

Entry No. 10 - Simon Wong swong@msi.ab.ca .

Automated House cooling

I've found with my house, that it gets rather hot in the summer. On a hot day, with no wind, the air inside the house is alot hotter than the air outside. Putting a fan in the attic, or even next to a window increases the airflow, and therefore the house seems cooler. I've automated this process with a few X-10 components.

I picked up a cheap thermostat, and attached it to a powerflash module. (You can set the powerflash to activavte either by always on, or always off contacts) The fan is plugged into an appliance module. Now, when the temperature exceeds the temperature in the thermostat, the fan will automatically kick on. This is especially handy at night. Not only will it keep you cool, but the fan will automatically turn off when it gets too cool (an thus saving electricity!)

Components:

- Fan - PowerFlash Module - Appliance Module - Thermostat

Cost: Not including Fan , approx $30

Entry No. 11 - Scott Norbury 12345@sk.sympatico.ca Saskatoon, SK, Canada

Using Palm Pads to Control Winamp or DVD Player

Yes, it can be done! Using Homeseer software and the CM11A computer interface supplied in the Activehome kit.

You can assign any executable program or wave file to any trigger - be it an x10 command received by the cm11a, certain time/dusk/dawn etc. This aspect works great for launching winamp (or any other program).

palmpadmusic.jpg (30520 bytes)For example: The way I have it set up now is to use a x10 trigger (in this case d2 on) to launch winamp using the command line "winamp.exe mix1.m3u". That runs winamp and automatically plays the mix1 playlist file. I organized my mp3 files into groups (rock.classical etc) and have each group in a playlist that is in turn launched with a different x10 trigger. By leaving Winamp in random mode I get a different arrangemant of songs each time I hit the corresponding button on the palmpad. Or by hitting a different button, a whole different playlist loads. Of course using a palmpad you have 16 possible triggers for different playlists (32 if you are willing to switch the little switch along the bottom)

Homeseer now has the ability to send keystrokes to a specific program triggered by a x-10 command, so I can now control all the functions of the winamp player (using d4 on for play, d4 off for pause etc.), and for that matter any other software that supports keyboard commands (the PC-DVD functions come to mind) - Maybe there is a use for all those free palmpads after all ;-)

I have the audio output from my Home control computer going to my whole house amp so I can have audio throughout the house at the push of a button.

The only components needed are of course a multimedia computer, a copy of the Homeseer software, and the CM11A computer interface from x-10. Barring the computer cost the total would be well under $100.00

Entry No. 12 - Tony Abbott abcom@deltanet.com Alta Loma,CA

FM Wireless Intercoms on Phone Lines

My contest entry provides the solution to two home automation problems: first; how to get reliable whole house communication using FM wireless (carrier current) intercoms. Second; how to have both X-10 and wireless intercoms coexist in the same setting.

Background, prior to the extensive use of X-10 in our home, I purchased 12 Novi four channel wireless intercoms. Even though our home is small, reliable communication was impossible from several rooms. The units were used occasionally, but we slowly reverted to shouting from room to room. Once I really started to implement X-10 at the homestead, the intercoms were found to block control signals. Needless to say, the units were earmarked for our next yard sale.

Then a flicker of insight (not a flash) occurred after several months of doing other tasks. I decided to provide the intercoms with their own dedicated line. There were existing multiconductor cables already in place. I let this idea simmer for several months and then decided that it would be too much work (I am thinking about retirement). Then it came to me, use the telephone lines; there was a phone adjacent to each intercom in every room. I dug out the box of intercoms and designated two as Guinea pigs. The modified units worked quite well, throughout the house.

Based success, the remaining units were modified and installed. Modifications are as follows (note there will be slight variations in mechanical layout depending on manufacturer), locate the two powerline coupling capacitors; these caps couple the RF into the powerline. Usually the capacitors will be located close to where the power cord attaches to the circuit board. There will typically be two capacitors of identical value (.05 - .1 uFD). One end of the capacitor will connect to one side of the power cord. The other capacitor will have one end connected to the other side of the cord. The opposite ends of both capacitors can be traced to an RF network (don't be concerned with this part of the circuit).

Modification consists of separating the coupling capacitors from the line cord. The best approach is to cut the printed circuit foil with an EX-acto knife. Make absolutely sure that you have removed all conductive material between these points (a voltmeter check will remove all doubt). Next, cut a 6' modular telephone extension cord in half (this can be the two wire variety). Strip 1.5 inches of outer jacket off from the cut end and locate the green and red wires (if you use six conductor cable the colors may be different). In any event, I selected the line one conductors which are the middle two pins in the modular plug. Strip .25 inches of insulation from the green and red wires and tin the exposed wire ends with a small soldering iron. Clip the black and yellow wires off at the jacket. Route the cable into the case of the intercom and solder one wire to the now open end of the capacitors (one wire to each cap). Close up the case and plug the intercom into a telephone outlet and plug in the power cord.

Similarly plug in a second unit in an adjoining room and test the system. If all was done correctly you will have communication between the two units. It should be noted, that some inadequately filtered phones will "hear" the intercom. This has not been a problem in our home.

Use caution with this project, as line voltage and telephone circuits are involved. If you are concerned about sending RF down the telephone line to the central office, a simple filter can be installed at the point where the line exits your residence. We have been using the communicators for several months without problems. and, they do not interfere with X-10 signals riding on the powerline.

Total cost, assuming that you already have the intercoms, is about $2 per unit. The intercoms cost $40 per pair at Sam's Club.