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Home Automation Tips and Tricks Archive
April 1998

I hate waking up in morning, trekking down to the garage only to find that we left the garage door open all night... Not only is this a security risk, but neighborhood animals enjoy the thrill of investigating your possessions. If you have pet food stored out there, chances are the intruders have sampled the cuisine by tearing it open. My house is large, and walking to the garage from my bedroom to check is not convenient, and often we do not remember to do this.

Simple solution: Magnetic sensor which is tripped on when the garage door is in the open position. I use the simplest remote system from Radio Shack ($40), connected to a small lamp in the bedroom. When the the light is on, the door is up. To close it, a use an x-10 to activate the push-button.. It simulates the press of the button... Like an intermittant off/on signal. This closes the door...

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We have two indoor cats, who, of course, have an indoor litter box. To keep offending odors at bay, the box is in a closet adjacent to our breakfast room. The kitties have their own "door" to the closet, which is also where their food & water are.

The closet is along an exterior wall, so I mounted a standard 120VAC 4" muffin fan inside the closet to vent the smells outside. The fan is plugged into an X10 appliance module. The exhaust side of the fan is connected to a standard clothes dryer vent, whose flap opens when the fan is running.

My Homevision controller controls the fan. It turns the fan on one hour before we get up in the morning and turns it off after we leave. It comes on again before we arrive home from work & goes off when the "Bedtime" macro executes. On the weekends, it runs all day.

The box generally needs to be "changed" every 4 days. Homevision keeps track of the days since it was last changed and plays a WAV file (of a cat meowing) over the whole-house audio system to remind us. A signal from a minicontroller resets the "days elapsed" counter.

What do the cats think about all this? Pretty much what you would expect - they're not very impressed. As long as there is food, water, clean litter, and a warm lap, they don't care what happens!

Components:

120VAC 4" Muffin fan: approx $ 8.00
X10 Appliance Module: approx $10.00
Dryer vent: Approx $ 6.00

Total cost: $ 24.00

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I travel quite a bit and being out in the country I like to know who has been at the house while I have been gone.

I have multiple postage stamp size video cameras placed around the house and entrance to the driveway. These are either hard wired or through a battery powered video transmitter to a video sequencer.

The video sequencer is connected to a video recorder that is controlled by a X10 power flasher to start and stop recording via X10 signals.

The whole setup is controlled by REX my X10 watchdog who starts barking when any of 4 wireless PIR sensors detects a vehicle or person pulling in the driveway or walking anywhere around the house. After about 15 seconds, REX sends the on signal to the power flasher which then starts recording. After about 3 minutes, REX sends the OFF signal which stops the recorder. Since there is no date or time stamp feature on any of the equipment, I use an old BETA video camera also connected to the sequencer that I have aimed at an old digital watch that shows the date and time. This is also added in sequence to the video tape. Not elegant but cheap and it works great.

When I get home all I have to do is check the recorder to see if it has been turned on and view the tape. I can usually fast scan over those that have a reason to be there such as package delivery or meter reader, etc. The cameras are aimed so that they capture any occupants of a vehicle as well as the license plates.

While not the cheapest installation, it was less than a commercial version that performs the same function.

In addition, I have the option to connect a phone dialer so that I am paged if there is activity for a long period of time.

The only problem I have had is that the deer seem to like my yard for lunch so I get lots of tape of them.

Components;

5 postage stamp video cameras bought at a computer show $35 each.
1 GBC video sequencer about $180
1 video recorder bought at a flea market about $15
1 old digital watch $?
1 old Beta video camera $?
1 REX-10 barking dog $50
4 motion detectors for REX about $20 each
1 X10 power flash unit $20

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Got one VCR and 3 TVs? For under $250 you can send a VCR or Satellite signal to every TV in the home... Say you are wanting to watch a movie, but the kids are playing PlayStation on the set with the only VCR (that works).

The best home automation technologies are the few that are simple to access. I love video distribution. Simply run dual RG6 coax from the family room to the other TVs in the home. You can follow the existing cable path. RG6 isn't neccessary, but you'll get a better signal. Channel Plus has a simple distribution system that lets you create your own channel. Best of all, it sells for $150 to security or electrical dealers.

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About once a month, someone asks in comp.home.automation how to make PR511 exterior motion sensor floodlights provide 24 hour motion sensing but only turn the floodlights on with motion after dark. This can be accomplished without any hardware modifications (thus preserving UL listing) with the addition of a $10 switch (somewhat more expensive if suitable house wiring unavailable). The result is the following improvements over normal PR511 operation:

1) 24 hour motion sensing X-10 on and off signal for automation
2) dusk to dawn (or any other desired time period) floodlight operation upon motion sensing.
3) quiet motion detection (normal operation of PR511 sounds loud click from 120volt relay upon motion sensing, which draws undue attention to security lights and sounds less professional)
4) flash-free motion sensing during times when floodlights not set to turn on (such as daylight hours).
5) Automated Christmas light control with no additional automation hardware!
6) stand alone or automation controller controlled operation.
7) programmable synchronous multi-unit operation if desired similar to Leviton model but at no additional expense (at less cost total than the Leviton unit!).
8) reprogrammable behavior from the ground (change controller program and/or X-10 switch addresses without accessing motion sensor, which may be 20 feet in the air).
9) dimmable floodlights (e.g. full bright when motion detected, half bright for house accent lighting).

The key to these automation friendly features is recognition that the motion sensor floodlight assembly is really a separate motion sensor with X-10 and 120volt switched outputs and an independent dual floodlight assembly in a single mounting plate. All the above benefits can be achieved simply by wiring them to house power as two independent devices and using an inexpensive X-10 wall switch to complete the operation. Specifically, the motion sensor should be wired to unswitched power (line) for continuous motion sensing and the floodlights wired to an inexpensive X-10 wall switch or inline module if wiring requires. In either case, this leaves an unused X-10 controlled relay output of the motion sensor, which can be used to provide X-10 controlled Christmas light power at a more convenient location than standard exterior outlets without requiring the purchase of X-10 switched outlets. This is in contrast to the approach of making a hardware modification to the PR511 circuit board (if possible) to achieve the desired motion sensing and floodlight operation. Benefits of this approach over the hardware modification include Christmas light automation control and preservation of UL listing on all devices. Another alternative is no modification or special wiring, but set the light sensitivity for 24 hour operation and have an intelligent controller turn the floodlights off as soon as they turn on (during the day). This results in a flash which draws attention to the floodlights, just as the relay click does, which significantly reduces its value for security applications.

Operation options (set "this unit" switch to dark in all cases):

stand alone operation (no controller): set light sensitivity as desired and enable +1 motion and +5 dusk/dawn switches. Set X-10 switch to address of PR511+1. Motion sensor will signal floodlights as though direct wired. Operation will be much quieter with no relay clicking. This mode is especially useful when controller is unavailable, such as during construction of a new residence, or when floodlights are purchased/installed prior to purchase/installation of a home controller.

synchronous operation (no controller): configure as above, but use same address for multiple PR511s and address + 1 for all switches. All lights will operate in unison if any see motion.

24 hour motion/dark floodlight operation with controller: set light sensitivity for continuous operation. Set X-10 switch address to unrelated address. Program controller to watch for PR511+1 on signal and if dark send on to X-10 switch. Either watch for PR511+1 off signal (setting on time as desired) or use timer in controller to turn off light (preferably resetting timer each time new motion detected). In the later case, on time should be set for 30 seconds for maximum reliability (repeat signals in case missed, but avoid flooding power line). Other actions associated with exterior motion (such as chime) can be configured in controller.

controlling Christmas lights: Simply send on and off commands as desired to the PR511's address, which now controls the switched outlet connected to it -- to which Christmas lights may be attached without running wires down to a near-ground outlet. No X-10 outlet required!

Wiring details:

NOTE: 120 volt house wiring should only be done by a qualified electrician and conforming to the relevant electrical codes. The below wiring details may be discussed with your electrician. If you decide to make these modifications yourself, you do so at your own risk.

The cheapest solution requires that both switched and unswitched power be available at the fixture location. The cleanest solution (which you can specify with new construction or may be lucky enough to already have) is to have 14 gauge / 3 conductor romex (electrical cable) between your switch and fixture location (line, load, neutral and ground, aka unswitched power, switched power, neutral and ground).

Retrofit options:

Replacing existing wiring with 14/3 cable may be practical if your switch location is a short straight shot from your fixture location (for instance higher on the other side of the wall containing the interior switch).

If 14/3 wire between switch and fixture is impractical, unswitched power may be available to the fixture from another source, such as when fixture location is accessible from an unfinished area, like an attic.

If you can't get both switched and unswitched power to the fixture, you'll need to use the existing wiring to bring unswitched power to the fixture and add an inline module (dimming fixture relay).

Switch Wiring (after shutting off all relevant power):

Replace your floodlight switch with an X-10 wall switch (if line, load, and neutral all available at fixture).

If you have 3 conductor wire from switch to fixture, connect the unused conductor to line in the switch box via a wire nut. This will bring unswitched power for the motion sensor up to the fixture. Typical 14/3 is color coded black, red, white. I'd recommend using black for line and red for load (output of the switch). Electrical codes may specify which to use.

If you can't get both line and load to the fixture, take out the switch and run line (unswitched power) directly to the fixture (or just leave the switch turned on). Optionally, you could put an X-10 button transmitter in place of the conventional switch if you have neutral available at the switch.

Fixture wiring:

If you have both unswitched (line) and switched power (load) at the fixture at this point, wire the floodlights to load and neutral and the motion sensor to line and neutral. Be careful to get this right as the PR511 instructions warn not to connect an X-10 switch to the motion sensor to avoid damage.

If you don't have load (switched power) available at the fixture, add an inline dimmer module inside the fixture box between line and the floodlights. Make sure to connect the motion sensor directly to line and neutral.

Either way, take the unused blue wire exiting the motion sensor and wire an outlet to it and neutral (and ground, especially if wiring as a GFI, as is most likely required by the electrical code for outside outlets). Safest is to use an exterior electrical box and cover (also probably required). This outlet will be at the perfect location for controlling Christmas lights (great for Christmas lights along the gutters) and is automation controlled.

I have several of these around the perimeter of my house, and use it with a HomeVision controller.

Approximate costs:

$35        PR511 motion sensor floodlight assembly
$10        X-10 wall switch
$35        dimming fixture relay module (if required)
varies        automation controller (varies from mini timer up)
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$45-$70 + controller

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You can loosen your over tightened lug nuts with this simple at home product that everybody usally has. Just spray a little non-stick cooking spray on the inside of the nuts . Wait a few seconds and watch them turn as easy as can be. All you need is 1 can of non -stick cooking spray that cost 2.29

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I entered into the world of Home Automation after buying my first "ActiveHome" system from X-10. I loved it, but wanted to do more, so I bought a more powerfull controller from JDS Technologies (TimeCommander). I replicated my original "ActiveHome" schedule easily in the TimeCommander, however several weeks later I found that I could make my "groups" of modules operate faster and in a more pleasing way. Instead of sending the "on" "off" "dim" or "bright" codes after each module (the only way I could with "ActiveHome"), It is much better to first send out all of the unit codes, and then send the command just once. This way all of the units act on the command in unison, instead of one at a time. For example, if you want to dim all of the lights in the living room to 50%, send the unit codes: A-1, A-2, A-3, A-4, and then send the dim command 4 times (A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM.) This is instead of sending A-1, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-2, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM, A-DIM, etc... This technique will work for TimeCommander, StarGate, HomeBase, and I am pretty sure that other most other sophisticated software/hardware controllers can do the same.

Example TimeCommander Code: EVENT: Dim Living Room Lights

If

Time is After 7:00 PM SMTWTFS

Then

X10: (A-1 Torch Light) (Send Unit Code Only)
X10: (A-2 Mantle Lamp) (Send Unit Code Only)
X10: (A-3 Spot Lights) (Send Unit Code Only)
X10: (A-4 Bookcase Light) (Send Unit Code Only)
X10: (A-5 Table Lamp) (Send Unit Code Only)
X10: A-DIM4 Steps (Send Command Only)

End

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I live in North-East Texas where there is a big problem with Armadillos tearing up our lawns and gardens. These animals are easy to stop, but the problem is catching them in the act. Typically, if you catch or manage to scare one away, you will be rid of your problem for a while until another one takes over its area. Armadillos typically come out late at night, after midnight, and do their digging. They can completely tear up a medium size garden, or a large patch or lawn in a single night. Well, after having my fill of this in our newly re-sodded yard, I decided to see if there was some way to catch our unwelcomed dining guest in the act and deal with this once and for all.

I took a Stanley X-10 flood light unit and removed the sensor assembly from the mounting base. I wired a standard power cord onto this sensor and installed it on top of a camera tripod with wire strap ties. Since Armadillos seem to like the same part of a lawn, and return to the same place several nights in a row, I ran an extension cord from the house, and placed the sensor in a position where I expected the Armadillo to return. I programmed Stargate, our automation processor, to react to an X-10 signal from this new temporary sensor by calling directly to the phone in my bedroom and announcing "Armadillo Alert" anytime motion was detected. I also programmed in a DTMF sequence to enable or disable this feature.

I left my Armadillo sensor out in the back yard for about three nights, and sure enought, got my first Armadillo. Several months later, when I noticed more digging in the yard, I repeated this process and haven't had a problem with Armadillos since. I still keep my modified temporary sensor around and, who knows, I my find another strange use for it some day.

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A sensor mounted to the hot water heater that communicates to an alarm in the bathroom, so you know you have 2 minutes until the hot water runs out in the shower!
Temperture sensor, wiring, alarm, timer,
$125.00?

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Your home automation system may already page you when there is activity in your driveway while you're away, but do you ever worry about who or what caused that activation? Here is a simple way to 'see' who or what it was. Using an inexpensive camera, the Connectix Quickcam for this example and a windows macro and a shareware program you can see who is visiting your house.

Aim the Connectix quickcam out a window to your driveway (the Quickcam has an auto-iris so morning or afternoon sun won't be a problem). When your X-10 motion sensor over the driveway is tripped, activate a windows macro which captures the Quickcam picture and saves it to disk, then using an automatic FTP program such as Sausage Software's Gatling FTP program which will automatically logon to the Internet, upload the picture to a web site and then log off. You can now access this picture from any Internet connected workstation. This also works well if you are expecting a package to be delivered and you don't want it sitting on the front porch all day long, when your pager goes off just look for the picture of the delivery truck! Save the pictures by date and time (ie: 03151314.JPG = Mar, 15 2:14PM) so you will have a log of the daily, weekly, monthly visitors. Another option instead of the Internet FTP is to have the computer FAX you the picture, which is quite easy with the fax capabilities built into Windows 95. (A side note, not recommended by myself, but there are sites on the web which talk about removing the infared filter in the camera turning it into an infared seeing camera for those midnight prowler pictures.)

Components:
Connectix Quickcam = $45 - $90 - $180 (referb/new B&W/new Color)
Gatling FTP = Shareware - see web page Web page space = Free (such as Tripod or Geocities)

(Additional Equipment if you don't already have a home automation system)
2 way X-10 interface (TW523) = $23
X-10 Motion Sensor (X-10 motion sensor floodlights) = $40
Home Automation Software = $ depends on needs and wants

Total Cost = $100 and up depending on current system

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Want an inexpensive way to open or close your blinds in the sun room or just to prevent sun fade on the furniture? Use a cordless screwdriver attached to the blind control rod. A cordless screwdriver like the Black & Decker VersaPakTM Cordless Screwdriver with Clutch attached to X-10 Universal Module works great! (The universal modules are attached to the forward and reverse switch in the screwdriver) You'll need a cordless screwdriver for each blind on the circuit and two X-10 Universal Modules (one for open and one for close), activate the universal module for the amount of time required to reach the desired level of blind control. Two modules can control multiple screwdrivers. The nice thing about the Black & Decker style is its size, it can easily be hidden in the side drapery.

Components:
Black & Decker VersaPakTM Cordless Screwdriver with Clutch = $26
X-10 Universal Modules = $18

Total Cost = Approx. $60 for a single blind application

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Tired of getting up in the middle of the night to let the dog or cat in or out? Using an old automobile headlight motor you can have an X-10 controlled pet door. Automobile headlight motors can easily be used with cables and pulleys. For looks, its best to build the motor and pulley system into the wall, but it could probably be contained in a nice looking box also. The pet door is a slide up/down style door, using only the weight of the door to close (we don't want to crush poor Fifi now do we?). A universal module is connected to the headlight motor, and when activated opens the pet door. The universal module is set to momentary so the door is only open for about 2 and a half seconds then closes. With training, your pet will have no problem making to its destination in this time period. Train your pet first by manually opening the door with the cable so the pet gets used to the action. An added feature is to put a "foot/paw" switch on the inside so the pet can open the door itself to get out, the first couple of times will usually startle the pet, but it quickly learns the routine. Want to control the time of day that Fifi is prowling the neighborhood? Put the headlight motor power on X-10 control. If you are really into projects, put beam sensors on each side of the door hooked to digital inputs on your computer, when Fifi enters or exits check the time difference between the two sensors to see if Fifi is coming for going then cut the power to the door if Fifi is in past the curfew. With the sensors you can have the universal module on continuous mode, and give Fifi added time to enter or exit. (Note: Silicon type plastic works great for "runners" for the door, makes for a nice non-stick smooth operation)

Components:
Headlight Motor from junk yard $15
Universal X-10 Module $18
Pet Treats = $5 (for training and rewards)
Beam Sensors for the die hard project person = $ If you're into it this deep, cost shouldn't matter because you'll still need to sense it at the computer!

Total Cost: $38

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How many times has your freezer door been left open? How much did it cost to replace the spoiled food? It has happened to me, and odds are, it will happen to you too eventually. I say "No More!". This little trick costs very little, and will prevent this catastrophe from ever happening. An added benefit, this same freezer alert will notify you if your compressor fails or the freezer gets unplugged.

I installed a 39 degree temperature sensor just inside the top edge of my freezer using heavy duty industrial strength double sided tape. I used very thin wire (28 ga.) to connect it to an X-10 PowerFlash module which is plugged into the wall outlet behind the freezer. I set the PowerFlash to mode B 3 to sense a switch closure. I used white electrical tape to hold down all the wires against the surface of the freezer inside panel, across the door facing, and across the top edge of the freeze. You cannot see the wires and they do not get in the way at all.

When the door is opened, the temperature starts to rise quite fast. The sensor, due to its mass, takes a few minutes to sense the higher temperature. This gives you plenty of time to open the door, look around, get an item(s) out, and pick up the stuff that falls out of the door onto the floor. When the temperature of the sensor gets above approximately 39 degrees, it causes the PowerFlash to send out an X-10 signal, which is received by my Stargate Home Automation Processor. Stargate then announces "Freezer Temperature Alert", preceded by an attention getting alert sound effect. This is announced twice. In addition, if the security system is armed, Stargate sends an alert signal out to my car via a radio link with the same sound effect and alert message. Just in case I happened not to be in the car and get the message, the same alert message is heard when we arrive home and disarm the security system. Any way you look at it, you’ll find out as soon as possible that there is a problem with your freezer.

This same circuit will sense if your freezer's compressor goes out or the freezer gets accidentally unplugged. But under these conditions, it will be a slow rise in temp, taking a few hours. The food will probably be near thawing, but you will not have to throw it out. In this case, be prepared to stuff it in your refrigerator until you get the freezer fixed, and be prepared to eat a lot of left-overs over the next few weeks.

If you don't have an automation processor like Stargate that can receive X-10 signals and make voice announcements, you can substitute an X-10 Chime module or Universal module for the Stargate announcement message. These two modules each can make an audible alert/chime sound in response to an X-10 signal, and they can be located anywhere in your home so they can be heard easily.

This alert system has proved itself twice since it has been installed in our home 1 year ago, so I know it really works. I guarantee that it can save you a bundle if it saves your freezer food even one time.

The cost of the project was $16.95 for the temperature sensor and $22.95 for a PowerFlash module from Home Automation Systems Inc.. The project will take about 1 hour to complete. If you decide to use an X-10 chime to announce your alert, it's cost will be $19.95 from the same source. With these key parts, a little wire, some white tape, and some double sided tape, you can rest easy knowing your frozen goods are safe.

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Hi: I'm in a wheel chair and when I travel, I take a remote receiver and a small motion detect. I hook the receiver to the table lamp in the hotel room (usually on the desk) and stick the det. to the door in the bathroom with a piece of two faced tape.  The only problem so far is remembering to take both devices when I leave to go home!

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