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Home Automation Tips and Tricks Archive
August 1997

The garage door in most of our homes nearly screams out for automation. After all, it's probably the only remote controlled motorized door in the house! Here's a multi-part automation idea for your garage door that uses many of the components for more than one function for cost efficiency. You can do the whole project or just pick out the parts you like.

Wire up everything as shown in the diagram. Mount the normally open switch so the magnet is aligned with it when the garage door is closed. I like to put it at the top of the garage door to keep the wire run short and easy. Most of the modules can be installed together on a power strip which can be fastened to the garage ceiling or rafters near the opener. The Leviton switch can be installed inside the house in any convenient electrical box and the timer can be plugged into any outlet.

Set both universal modules to momentary, relay only and your choice of house and unit codes. Set the Leviton switch to your desired house and unit code. Set the Powerflash module input select to 2 (contact closure), the mode to 3 (single unit code on and off), and the house and unit codes to match the appropriate button/LED on the Levition switch.

Part 1: Security lock out
Unless you have a newer model garage door opener, it's not too hard for someone to find out your code and open your garage while you're not home. You can completely turn off the opener when you're away so it will not work even with your remote.

Plug the garage door opener in through the appliance module. Schedule the module to turn off any time you don't want the door to be opened, such as when you're on vacation, at work, or sleeping. Schedule it to turn on again shortly before you will arrive home. Be sure to have a way to get in if you decide to come home early, ie. call into your system from a cellular phone or see part 4.

Part 2: Auto close at night
I hate getting up in the morning and seeing that I left the garage door open all night. I've seen other solutions to this problem but they sometimes don't work if the door is only part way open. This solution also has the advantage of being integrated with the other parts.

When the door is in any position other than fully closed, current will flow through the magnetic switch, allowing universal module A to close the door. When the door is fully closed, the switch opens and no signal from the universal module can reach the garage door opener, so nothing happens.

Using the mini-timer or some other controller, schedule universal module A to activate whenever you want the door to close, ie. every night at 11pm. If the door was stopped part way open while going down, the timed signal will fully open the door instead of closing it. Sending the signal two or more times with a short delay will then close the door. This also insures the door gets closed if the first signal is blocked by noise on the power line. I like to activate it four times at three minute intervals just to be sure.

A word of caution: only use this if your garage door opener has a safety beam feature to make sure it doesn't close on the neighbor's cat (or worse).

Part 3: Inside status indicator
I like to know at a glance if my garage door or fence gates are open. Leviton makes a nice wall switch with up to four buttons, LED status indicators, and a place for your own labels. It has a built in receiver that updates the LED's from the signals on the power line.

Whenever the garage door is opened, the magnetic switch activates the Powerflash module which will send a signal and light up the LED on the wall switch. The LED will only turn off when the door is fully closed. The extra wall switch LED's could be used to monitor other doors or gates by adding more magnetic switches and Powerflash modules. The extra buttons could also be used to close the garage door using the method in part 2.

Part 4: Reliable door open
There are times when it can be useful to close the garage door from your home automation system. Unfortunately, X-10 just isn't reliable enough because power line noise can occasionally activate a module. You wouldn't want that module to open your door when you're not home. A reasonable solution is to require two signals before opening the door.

Be sure the universal modules are set to different unit codes or even different house codes for more security. To open the garage door, just activate both universal modules. Because the universal modules are set for momentary operation you have about two seconds to activate both modules.

What to use it for? If you have a central controller, wire your doorbell into it. Program the controller so that if you lock yourself out of the house you can tap a code on the doorbell and have the garage door open to let you in. (While you're at it, make your lights flash when the doorbell rings too.)

One good thing which you can do without a lot of money... When it's time for wakeing, normally executed by x10, you'll have ready for drinking caffe, and READY to WHEAR all that you need, depending on outhside temperature and clear sky (sun) percentage. The point is, that the smell of cafee gets you out, but that's an oldie thing in x10 world, but now ... it's very nice that you dont have to look out, and go out to see which thinkgs you'll be whearing today. X10 could do it for you. All that you need is one photodetector, and a temperaturdetector, and the closeth with your things set up on the places depending on which things you want to whar in which outside situations (temp+sunny).

Depending on outside data, computer tells you which thinkgs (from which place) you can get. Computer can tell you that in the way you want. You can setup led diods on that places which will blink, or you can even build a sofisticated thing with electromotor which will open that side of closeth you need (or closeths).

How it works: it's very simple, photodetector sends to one analog port the amount of light which tells you if it's cloudy, and the temperaturedetector send to another analog port the amount that represent temperature. On those data, computer suggest you what to whear this morning. (You can even use only one analog port if you connect together your sunny and hotty detector and make some logic, if you cant use two ports or have only one left). The way you get your information you can choose: by voice announcment, by LEDs (Lamp module), or even with e-motors...

LIST OF COMPONENTS:
for measurement
1. photo detector (photothrystor)
2. temperature detector
------------------------------------
about : $30 (if you can do it yourself-about $5)

for results
option 1) with LEDS about $5
option 2) with VOICE (depending what do you have at home)
option 3) with MOTORS about $150


APPROX TOTAL COST: from $10 to $180

Enjoy, and if some girl tells you "Those colours don't match", you're free to say: "I am not guilty, NOT GUILTY!!! ". :))

Goran (sorry folks for my bad english)

I am sick of picking up everyone's towels in the bathroom. Well, I know how to fix this. First the closet is converted to hold towels, with a sort of handcuff attached to the towel. Until a person closes the handcuff, the other end won't release and allow the cuff and towel to come out. If your wondering, the towel unit is in the bathroom and you get one after a bath or shower. Now, when the person is done drying, they put on their robe, shorts or whatever trips their trigger and they must go to the laundry room, where there is a towel bin that releases the handcuff as the person slides the cuff down the special unlocking mechanism. At this point the towels are where they should be to be washed. The special cuffs are ready to be hooked to the clean towels and installed in the towel dispenser. The people who were getting yelled at, will not have to get yelled at. The people doing the yelling, will not have to yell anymore and can stop their blood pressure medicine ! And to top it off, the bathroom is fairly clean, hum, now to design a cuff for the toilet seat !!

Bedside on/off and dimming control of a lamp or overhead light can be accomplished using an inexpensive keychain remote by using macros programmed in the X-10 ActiveHome software and CM11A computer interface. While direct dimming is possible using more expensive X-10 wireless remotes such as the RT504, this article shows that it's simple to provide single-light dimming with the 2-button X-10 Keychain Remote. This is a great way to make use of that extra keychain remote sitting on the shelf!

The X-10 Keychain Remote (KC674) works with the X-10 Wireless Base Transceiver (RR501) and the X-10 Deluxe Base Transceiver (TM751). The Keychain Remote and the Deluxe Base Transceiver are usually sold as a package, and extra Keychain Remotes can be purchased separately. Lights can be controlled by an X-10 Lamp Module (LM465), an X-10 Wall Switch Module (WS467), or any module that provides dimming control.

The Keychain Remote can be set to transmit device codes 1 and 2 or 5 and 6 on a house code. In this article we'll use device codes 1 and 2 on house code A. If you're using the Deluxe Base Transceiver you can choose to use device codes 5 and 6.

THE SETUP:

Set the Keychain Remote to the same house code as your Base Transceiver (we'll use house code A). Set the Lamp Module or the Wall Switch Module to house code A and device code 1. With this setup, button 1 on the Keychain Remote will control ON and OFF for your light at A1. The next step is to program dimming on button 2 of the remote.

We'll use two ActiveHome macros to accomplish dimming and brightening on device A2, which corresponds to button 2 of the Keychain Remote. The macros will be programmed so that when you press button 2 OFF on the remote, the controlled light will dim, and when you press button 2 ON, the controlled light will brighten (ON to brighten and OFF to dim is a logical way to remember how the button works). These macros will "point to" and control the real X-10 module at device A1. I prefer to use Fast Macros because they are stored in the CM11A interface and I do not leave the computer on all the time.

Set up device A1 (your lamp or wall switch module) in the ActiveHome software and you're ready to go.

THE MACROS:

For the dimming control, create a macro A2 and set it to respond to the OFF condition. We'll call this macro "A2-OFF". Drag the module A1 onto the A2-OFF macro to associate it with the new macro. Click the Absolute/Relative dimming control (the yellow box next to the dimmer slider) so that it has a yellow dot. This sets relative dimming, so that the interface will dim the light from its present brightness level, as opposed to first brightening the lamp to 100% and then dimming. The dim percent box will read "-100%". Click the up arrow above the dim percent box several times until the number in the percent box reads "-40%".

For brightening control, create a macro A2 and set it to respond to the ON condition. We'll call this macro "A2-ON". Drag the module A1 onto the A2-ON macro to associate it with the new macro. Click the Absolute/Relative dimming control so that it has a yellow dot. The dim percent box will read "0%". Click the up arrow above the dim percent box until the number in the box is yellow and reads "40%".

You can choose other dim and brighten percentages to suit your needs. A setting of 40% allows for 2-step dimming; 20% will give you 4-step dimming.

Name your macros and save them and you're all set.

COMPONENTS:
X-10 ActiveHome Automation Kit

Separate components include:
X-10 Lamp Module (LM465), X-10 Wall Switch Module (WS467), or other X-10 module with dimming capability; Wireless Base Transceiver (RR501) or Deluxe Base Transceiver (TM751); Keychain Remote (KC674).

Approximate cost of components:
ActiveHome Kit, $99.00; Wireless Base Transceiver (RR501), $28.00; Deluxe Base Transceiver with Keychain Remote (TM751), $24.00; Keychain Remote (KC674), $15.00.

My idea is the total security system, including power backup. The system would 'remember' a history of your actions over a week, and duplicate them in terms of lights, television, blinds, and any other habits you have when in 'vacation' mode. Of course this would be timed delayed, enough for you to deactivate the system upon return.

Triggered by off the shelf security components, the system would react with a repetitive combination of programmed events without delays and include an alarm, intimidating voices or barking dogs, scaring the would be burgler away through means of audio and visual effects. The system would reset once the motion ceases to exist after 5 minutes.

The ultimate effect is a combination of preventative and defensive measures to ward off the unwanted in your home.

Cost: Depending on the functionality and components you place on the system, you could spend upwards from $1000 to $3000. I'm no expert on the installation, so I can't speak with certainty on the total cost solution to this problem. Be sure to include a video camera triggered by the software to capture the whole event for playback, should be a good show!

List of components: Beyond the security components, you would need to include switches for lights, blinds, TV(s), camera(s), radio, backup power for each component desired, etc...plus the software to be developed to accompany this product to recall habitual actions, and replay in normal and sporadic/repetitive modes (depending on defense posture of the system).

One of the things I wanted to accomplish when I built the home automation system was to link the HA system with building access. In looking at commercial solutions, they're VERY expensive. I came up with the following solution which allows digital keypad access to the door lock while, at the same time, restricting this access to certain periods of the day. For access other times of the day, a traditional key will allow entry.

The heart of the system is the Weiser Lock Powerbolt. I found one at Lowe's building supply. The Powerbolt is a deadbolt replacement that incorporates a digital keypad with a 3-8 digit changeable code for access. A single button on the lock activates it (which moves the deadbolt to it's locked position) and the correct code retracts the deadbolt. (An incorrect code 3 times disables the system for 1 minute.) There's no part number associated with it, and they come in about 40 different variations; from deadbolt only to kits with different handle styles, finishes, etc. The lock has 2 different codes (in our case, one for the family and one for the housekeeper who comes once a week.)

The lock is installed as described in the instructions. The power is supplied from 4 AA batteries in the lock itself. I wanted to be able to control WHEN the lock worked (ie: specific times of the day, specific days, etc.)

Once the lock is installed, clip the red (or black) wire that provides power to the battery. This is the piece that will be "switched" by the HA controller. In the door jamb, I installed two bullet catches (Stanley Bullet Catch p/n 80-3850.) The catches have brass spring loaded balls and a brass "cup" that the ball "latches" into when the door is close. I used these as the mechanism to provide the two switch wires from the door to the HA system. (See the drawing below.) I was able to drill a small hole and solder a wire tab to each piece of the catch.

The switch (through the brass bullets) is connected to an X-10 Universal module. I use the CM11A to set specific times when the module will be "on", which enables the lock. In our case, we "enable" the lock on the day the housekeeper comes and at our anticipated arrival times each night. If, for some reason, we arrive early, the key provides entry. It prevents someone from stumbling across the code (unlikely anyway) and prevents the lock from activating except when we know we're expecting someone. If the housekeeper changes her day, we change the system to reflect that.

Costs:

Weiser Power Lock - $97.24 (Lowes) Stanley Bullet Catches (4) - $2.66 (Lowes) X-10 Universal Module - $20.95 Misc. Wire, solder, etc.

TOTAL Cost - $120.85 (give or take a few bucks for wire, taxes, etc.)

When I was a young child, I had a camera which I dearly enjoyed. My next door neighbor, Johnnie, I believe was his name, and I became very good friends before a parting summer. We wanted an everlasting picture of us together, but had nobody to snap the picture at the moment. Well, we knew squirrels always smashed their nuts before eating them, so we figured out how to lay on the ground to be within the camera lens and placed some small nuts on the snap button which takes the picture. Needless to say, a squirrel wondered over and we were ready. SNAP! He got Johnnie and me in an everlasting embrace with loads of giggles as we figured out our environment and how to get what we wanted.

One of the great things about X-10 technology in home automation is that it's cheap. This is also one of the greatest disadvantages too. A prime example is the WS467 wall switch. They do a good job but they break easily. When mine break, I fix them and make them better at the same time. You can do the same if you're handy with a soldering iron.

The problem: If you open a switch you will find a small piece of springy metal attached to a plastic plunger. When you press the button, that metal piece shorts a set of contacts on the circuit board. Unfortunately that piece of metal is only attached by a blob of melted plastic and maybe a little glue. After repeated use the metal breaks off. If you have a switch that works from another controller but not by its own push button, this is probably the cause. If your switch has local dimming enabled (explained later), this failure will cause the light to continuously cycle from bright to dim and back.

A new button: The metal piece can be completely removed and a new surface mount switch soldered directly to the circuit board. There are a number of switches that will fit in the space. Many of the electronics catalogs such as Digikey carry them. I chose part number PB-73 from All Electronics (thank you to Jim Griggers for the source). Either the switch or the circuit board must be modified slightly for this to fit. I chose to modify the switch because it's quicker. Simply cut off two of the switch leads diagonal from each other then solder the remaining leads to the contacts on the circuit board. Your may need to use a knife to remove what's left of the nub on the end of the plastic plunger so it doesn't stick down too far. After everything is assembled you will have a wall switch with a light touch and a nice tactile feel.

Local dimming: While you have everything apart, you might as well make some other improvements. You can enable local dimming by soldering a small jumper across the set of contacts shown in the picture. With this enabled, you can press and hold the button to cycle through the available dim levels. A normal press of the button will still turn the light full on or full off.

Bulb change disable: You can also fix that pesky slide switch below the push button. It's intended to cut all power to the light when you can change the bulb. But they always seem to get slid over to the off position and my lights don't work as expected. Most of us change a light bulb occasionally with the power on anyway, so I disable the feature. Soldering a jumper between the contacts will fix it and save you from having to reinstall the little metal contact that activates it. I usually just cut a chunk of the metal contact and solder that in place.

Total cost: about fifty cents and a little time (about 15 minutes with pracitce).

My 10 year old daughter had a tendency to leave the garage door open after putting her bike away. To remedy this I positioned a NO magnetic switch to close when the garage door is fully open. I connected it in series with an X-10 Universal module set to momentary setting and put the two paralel with the existing opener switch. A comand sent to the module by an X-10 timer at 10 PM closes the door. If the door is already closed the magnetic contact prevents unwanted action. If you try this please be sure your opener's safety systems operate properly ( photo eye & reversing ).

Parts needed:
X10 mini timer
X10 unerversal module - 1/door
NO magnetic contact - 1/door
Total price- about $50 for 1door $25 each additional door

As most Home Automation units are wireless, and usually have an identifying code as to the source, create an personal unit (wrist worn or pager style) that will receive and translate the signal into a visual statement for people who are hearing impaired. For example, if the doorbell is activated, the personal unit would vibrate a short pulse and a LCD would show "DOORBELL", if the smoke detector is activated the unit would vibrate constantly and the display would show "FIRE". Where ever a signal device is placed, i.e., door, phone, smoke alarm etc, the personal unit would be programmed with the appropriate signal and display.

List of Components: standard units PLUS new personal unit

Approximate Total Cost of Components: unknown

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